30 January 2017

Remembering where I came from

This is it. Finally. Part I of the thrilling conclusion to my holiday travels. I apologise for the long wait. I didn't forget; it's just that sometimes there's a certain amount of processing that needs to happen before I'm able to write one of these posts.

A brief update to address some of the content from my last post: I'm feeling much better now that courses have started back up again. There are still days when I feel quite anxious (yesterday, when I started writing this post, was one of them) but, on the whole, I'm happy, healthy, and enjoying life. I hope to give a more thorough overview of this semester and what I've been up to soon, but first things first: Sweden.

It's been over a month since I left Oslo, late in the morning on 28 December, aboard a train bound for Stockholm. It's been long enough that all I remember from the 5 hour journey is the overpriced-but-not-nearly-as-expensive-as-I-thought-it-would-be sandwich from the lounge car and the sun slipping below the trees as the train curved past a lake. Maybe I slept the rest of the way. I don't know.

Once in Stockholm, it was too dark to see anything but lights and their reflections in the water as we crossed a bridge into Central Station. I wouldn't appreciate it fully until the next day, but Stockholm is built on 14 islands that are part of the Stockholm Archipelago--a geographical feature made up of approximately 24,000 islands in total. Though dark outside, it's hard to forget my first moments in Stockholm. My train came in on Platform 9. The family members picking me up thought I was coming in on Platform 8... across the tracks. Unaware of this, I spent the next 30 minutes or so wandering around trying to locate my family. It took five phone calls, one realisation that there are TWO Radisson Blus, and coming within about ten metres of one another before finally finding each other in the atrium.

I like to think it was just building dramatic tension so meeting would be even more momentous. Although I'm the first American of my generation to visit the Swedish relatives in Sweden, I felt I was merely completing the circle my Swedish cousin started when she visited us in Seattle last Spring. I hope I and the rest of my family make many more trips around the circumference of that circle. Because more so today than ever, it's vital we remember our heritage; remember that, essentially, most of us are immigrants. Whether you, your grandparents, great grandparents or--as in the case of my Swedish family--great great grandparents were the ones to immigrate to America, you/they likely did so because of the hope for a better future that America offered; and, with plenty of hard work, the opportunity for success in any field or occupation, free from discrimination or societal limitations. So let me take this digression to say that this is not the America I see today. Today's America is not my America. President Trump has destroyed it with his Immigration Ban. But for all that my heart and head have hurt yesterday and today, I know that the America I left a mere five months ago is not dead yet. As long as there are those who will stand against Trump, his administration, and his idiocy, there is still hope. Washington Governor Jay Inslee, the thousands that showed up at JFK airport to protest--these are only a few examples of people taking action. Perhaps you're not one to take such actions. So here are some other things you can do: Vote! in upcoming elections if you're American; spread love and kindness and hope; or, like me, remember where you come from, travel, learn about the world, and form connections that prove we will not give in to fear; we embrace the world and everyone in it.

After hugs of greeting, we walked from the station through Stockholm to the hostel we'd stay the night at. I dropped off my bags and then we headed out for dinner. We went to a small Greek restaurant and so did about twenty other people who were there for a company dinner party. Despite the noise, it was still very enjoyable for the good food and conversation.

The next day we were up bright and not-quite-so-early (this being December in Sweden, after all) to see as much of Stockholm as it's possible to see in one day. I feel like we barely scratched the surface. I could spend at least another week in Stockholm. Incentive to go back, I suppose. Anyway, our first stop was the Vasa Museum. Walking there took about an hour because, like I said, Stockholm is built on a series of islands. And there are only so many bridges. I didn't mind. It just meant I got to see more of the city and its beautiful, original architecture. Our walk took us straight through Gamla Stan (The Old Town), the oldest part of Stockholm. Narrow streets and tall, thin buildings on either side, giving way to a large open square next to the Royal Palace looking out over the water. We'd be back to the Royal Palace a little later for the changing of the guard, but the Vasa was waiting.

Taken from City Hall
The Vasa is a Swedish warship built between 1626-1628 by the King, Gustavus Adolphus. During her maiden voyage on 10 August, 1628, it sank before even getting out of the harbor. The reason for its sinking is its magnificence. The ship was heavily armed with 64 cannons, ornately decorated, approximately 52.5m high from keel to truck (top of the mast), and (!!!) only 11.7m wide. The builders knew it would be unstable, but the King ordered it to set sail anyway, anxious to see this symbol of his and Sweden's power in action. The King's folly and the political cowardice of his subordinates resulted in the ship sinking and at least 15 sailors losing their lives. The tragedy of the Vasa lay undisturbed for over 300 years, until it was rediscovered in the late 1950's and then salvaged in 1961.

It now serves an impressive tourist attraction and as one of the best sources of knowledge about ship building and everyday life in Sweden in the 17th century. It also serves, I think, as a reminder: there are those who would see themselves built up to the highest point possible without adequate structure beneath them. We must have the political courage to stand up to them before disaster strikes and everything founders.

From the Vasa Museum we went back to the Royal Palace to see the Changing of the Guard. Not quite the scale of the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, but it was impressive all the same. After lunch we had just enough time for a tour of City Hall. It was fascinating hearing about the history of Stockholm, the building, and the Nobel Prize Ceremony, Banquet, and Dance held there. The most impressive room by far is the Golden Room. The walls are literally covered in gold.


After our tour it was time to head to the car. Then it was just a two hour car ride to Linköping. But I'm afraid the rest of my time in Sweden will have to wait until Part II. I promise it won't be another month before that gets posted. But with coursework starting to pile up, it might be anywhere between three hours to three weeks. I'll do my best. And now let me leave you by urging everyone to do and be their best. Difficult times are ahead and we must all join together with patience, understanding, and love.

Stay informed. -NLD

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